NOTE: This text was originally uploaded in 2017 on my PNT hike. Lightly edited for typos.
I made it to the land of “famous potatoes”, as per the Idaho license plate. I’m in Bonners Ferry right now, 16 miles south of the trail, certainly one of the longer hitches on the PNT. The last 100 miles between here and Eureka have been quite the adventure.
Heading out of Eureka, the trail took me along Lake Koocanusa, where I found a spectacular campsite on a bluff overlooking the lake. Easy walking along the lake on the Kootenai rail trail brought me to one of the worst roadwalks so far on the PNT. 6.7 miles on SR37, a paved road with a 60 mph (100 km) speed limit. My feet, after two days of rest, decided to give up near the end of the road walk, and I spent some time doing some emergency surgery on my feet. So far, they’ve been doing ok, nothing that I can’t manage with the right supplies.
Webb mountain brought me to the low point of the trail so far. At the end of a long day, the 3500′ in 4 miles (with a full pack of food, no less) almost made me quit right there.
Of course, quitting would mean I would have to go back down that terrible climb, so I pushed forward, and found a tiny campsite on the side of the trail. The next day (day 3), was better, and I spent the night with Marty McFly at the top of Mt Henry, a 7000′ peak with a creaky lookout tower at the top, and amazing views of the Yaak valley below.
The next day brought me into Yaak with almost 10 miles of dirt road walking, and some good berry action just below Turner falls. Yaak is a great small town with 3 businesses – a general store, a tavern, and a saloon. I spent the night on the outdoor stage behind the tavern with Jetfighter and Caveman, and got to charge up my phone and battery pack all night. Caveman’s relatives brought us to the trailhead (another road), and I pushed on to the top of Garver mountain where I spent the night. Not the best idea with some far off lighting and a bit of rain, but the view was incredible. The next day I only did 8 miles, down to the west fork Yaak river, where I met up with three members (Diana, Sterling, and Dylan) of the Warrior Expedition group, a program to help combat veterans transition from their military service. There ended up being 6 of us at the campsite that night, as Jetfighter and Caveman joined us too. We even made a campfire, but as usual, were in bed by 8:30.
I made my biggest day yet on the 21st doing 24 miles, trying to make it to the Feist Creek restaurant, and made it just before close, only making it because Idaho is an hour behind Montana, giving me a free hour. The fish in the pond there go crazy for stale garlic bread, like pirranas after a scrap of meat. They even gave us a free cookie after dinner and let us camp on the lawn! The 22nd brought me 3500′ up and over Bussard mountain; amazing views at the top of the Selkirks, the next mountain range we are to slog over. A late 8 pm hitch into town with an Albertan couple on their way to Oregon brought me to where I sit in the shade writing this post, trying to stay out of the 90 degree heat.
Water is becoming a big issue out here. The stretch between Yaak and here was the driest yet, and I was regularly carrying 3 to 4 liters every time I left a stream. The streams are running low, too. The large snowpack is now almost completely melted, and the previously snow fed streams are running out of water without any rain to fill them. The forecast looks like more of the same, hot and dry. With 103 miles to Metaline Falls from here, the packs going to be pretty heavy leaving town with full food and water.
The next stretch also has some fires currently burning as well up near upper Priest Lake, closer to Metaline Falls. The PNTA and the National Forest Service has provided some re-routes, but I’m still watching Inciweb closely for any last minute updates. I’m out of town tomorrow after picking up a package from the post office, hoping to make 6 days to Metaline Falls, putting me in town next Sunday. The feet are holding up OK and moral is good, so I’m looking forward to the next section. As always, send me an email if you want to hear about anything in particular, or just to say hello.
Lake Koocanusa, looking North.
Lookout on Mt Henry, great peak to spend the night on.
Some fire smoke looking west off the top of Mt Henry.
Roads all the way up Garver mountain. Great berry action, met a nice couple who let me in on their patch and pick with them.
Rock Candy Mountain bushwack. Absolutely amazing scenery above treeline, 360 views. Would highly recommend the climb.
Did 24 miles to reach this place, well worth the effort. Can’t beat a cold beer and hot food after a long day.
Feist Creeks resident polar bear, Zena.